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| 'Les Cascades', swimming pool near Banfora |
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| 'Les domes de Fabedougou', Rock formations near Banfora |
images
a nutshell after shopping
In a nutshell, the events of last days:
- on thursday evening, the presidential guard started an uproar, firing at the presidency, the president leaving the capital for a short while (well, leaving is a mild term) - the uproar would have been started because of allowances not being paid out in time.
- the uproar expanded to other military barracks, heavy looting reported in the centre of the city. Some houses of big military chiefs (as well as some mayors) have been burned down.
- friday, the mutiny continued - less heavy then before, while mutineers harassed people, stole cars from citizens (mostly jeeps). In the evening the president sent the government back home, sacked the current commanders in chief of the army, and appointed new ones. He also paid out the presidential guard.
- during the night, the presidential guard and police have started to patrol in the city to establish some peace and quiet.
- saturday, all shops and fuel stations remain closed. There's no more mutiny on the streets. I still could get hold of some fish, brochettes and potatoes for a bbq tonight. There are remains of burned down and trashed vehicles.
- shopkeepers from the central market seem to have set fire to the office of the CDP (the ruling party) in the centre of the city - they are clearly fed up with the situation.
Still, we're ok here. No worries - Belgium has one more thing in common with Burkina Faso now: no government.
Next update is really going to be bout work!
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| The supermarket where we used to do some of our shopping. Looted during the night and set to fire afterwards. |
on curfews, work and weekends
3 Topics this time. Here we go.
Since sunday, the curfew has been denounced. Meaning: we're allowed again to go out for binge-drinking after 19 o'clock - not that I felt a urgent need to. Anyway, it's also a sign that things are getting back to normal! In all honesty, my last post on security wasn't truly honest. Last week, we've still spent a couple of nights listening to gun fire (well, ok, if I'm really honest now: I tend to listen about 5 minutes, before falling asleep again), but after a reconciliation session between the president of Burkina Faso and a quite high number of officers and soldiers from the army, there has been quite a change as they seem again to spend their nights inside their barracks. No more gun fire at night - which is still better.
Anyway, to make sure we had at least a weekend in quietness & peace, we went onto the motorbike to Koubri, famous for it's nuns, yoghourt and an 'auberge'. The nuns and yoghourt are bound together, as the former produce the latter, and for sure: they do that very well. We stayed with the nuns (well, at their hotellerie) for the first night. The auberge (called Bouginvilliers) was another interesting place - Belinda found her favorite spot at the ponton next to the barrage, while I went for a ride with the bike. I truly had a great time exploring the country side - such a difference with the city I'm living in now. And I loved talking to people, just sitting outside together, as if there was no tomorrow and no yesterday. One remark though: the landmarks of high voltage power lines, rising up higher than any building - and yet, it is so strange to realize that none of the villages is connected in any way with them. There're just there, standing still, a mere sign of a world which is developed. But they bring nothing to these people.
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| somewhere near Koubri |
Not that there's a bridging line with the last topic: work. But still, for some who may doubt: that's taking most of my time here. After the first weeks which went quite slowly, I get involved a lot more now. There's a tremendous job lying ahead of me, on both the level of organizational development as ICT. Every day I learn, and get a better idea of what's needed to move forward. Still, my ideas are in an embryonic state - and I'm trying not to act wiser as I am. Will write further in detail on that in the second half of this month - in Dutch on the blog of my partner Daidalos (click here) and on this site.
security update - Ouaga back to normal
Just a quick update - concerning last blogpost: Ouaga is back to normal. Traffic all over, shops are getting repaired and fuel stations are opening again.
And naturally - we're still ok. No worries.
Under siege II (a different perspective)
The setting.
I’m in the Villa 43 outside the city centre; Belinda’s in her apartment at the heart of the city. I’m asleep, she’s not. It’s 00.45.
The events.
Woken up by my phone ringing. Hearing Belinda explain - trembling voice - ‘there’s gunfire in the centre’, she doesn’t know what’s going on. I’m walking outside on the terrace, hearing it too, quite a lot of gunfire, quite a lot of places it’s coming from. She doesn’t want me to come over. I'm telling her that I’ll go outside into the streets to have a look, see if I can get some explanation and a promise to call her back. Neighbors on the streets. Apparently a battalion of soldiers got into town to create some uproar, in order to defend their colleagues who got sentenced to a bit more than a year for attacking a civilian - and from there the sources are different: some say it’s because some soldiers attacked the civilian as a revenge for a relationship with a wife of one of the soldiers, some keep it to a dispute which went out of control.
A civilian jeep driving through the main road, front window smashed, probably stolen (confirmed later), filled with soldiers, firing in the air, stopping just outside here. No more fuel. They get out, start yelling too, the neighbors and me start running and seeking cover. Eventually they disappear.
About 45 minutes after the first call, after a lot of talks to and advice from the neighbors and a couple of phone calls to Belinda how the situation is in the centre, I decide to take the risk to go out to to the apartment on my motorbike, avoiding the main roads as much as possible. One last phone call to her to inform on the last things I’ve heard and to ask her how she’s doing; a promise give her a call in 30 minutes for an update. Enough time to get to the apartment. No way I’m telling her at this stage I’m coming over.
So I head off. Can’t avoid all main roads. Just on the first main road I need to take, I see some soldiers attacking a civilian, a local guy on his bike, and a severe beating it seems, but I don’t stop. After 1km I get halted by a soldier who puts himself behind me on the motorbike, and orders me to start driving. Luckily after about 500m he decides it’s enough, tells me to stop, asks me ‘ca va’ and says I can go on. The next part of the route towards the apartment I can take using smaller roads. No street lights, and almost nobody outside.
On the last part of the route where I can’t avoid the main roads again, I am less lucky, as 4 soldiers stop me - their weapons pointed at me, ask me where I’m going, and start shouting ‘on veut de l’argent pour l’eau’ (we want money for some water). The first 5.000 CFA (enough for 5 liters of bottled water) doesn’t seem enough, and while one of the soldiers has taken the key of the motorbike, there’s no other option than handing him over the rest of the money I got with me. I don't care. They are satisfied with the 40.000 CFA. Finally, I get my key back, and start riding again. The last intersection I cross with blind eyes and high speed - a soldier wants to stop me but is too late, and finally I arrive at Belinda’s apartment, lock the bike, and get into the building. 5 minutes before I promised to call back, I give her a call to ask her to open the door of the apartment.
We’ve spent the next 3 hours sitting on cushions on the ground in the hallway - to avoid any possible risks, there’s still too much gun fire. Most of the time we hear them in the streets next to the apartment, talking, yelling, but mostly firing in the air. At a certain point they smash a window of a shop, we hear the glass break and from that moment, every now and then we hear new soldiers arrive, stepping on the broken glass, probably to see what's left to steal. Sometimes we hear them banging on a metal gate a bit further down the street, they seem quite determined to enter. At some moments when it gets a bit more quiet - well, the gunfire we hear is from further away - we have a look through the windows, still hiding in the shade, to get a better idea of the situation outside. We see there’s a soldier walking back to the military camp holding a computer screen in his hands - and some young guy being harassed by a couple of soldiers on a motorbike.
Finally, most of them seem to have returned to their camp - mostly passing by the streets next to the apartment, still firing their weapons and shouting. The shop with the broken window still causes soldiers to halt. The gunfire eventually subsides. We go for a sleep round 05.00.
The conclusion.
What strikes me most is how the military acted against it’s population, the population it is part of, brought terror and fear in the city, smashed windows and looted shops. The small stalls of the market in the centre, aiming their weapons on them, destructing the possessions of people just trying to take care of their families and make a living. The clothes shop next to the apartment, smashed window, the till in bits and pieces - probably no money found, but lot's of damage created. The petrol station next to the villa, the owner not being able to open up in the morning because all windows are smashed and there’s nothing more inside. A jeep stolen from civilians, still in the street, with it’s front window broken, doors open. And many many other damages which I haven’t seen - in other sections of the city.
It seemed like being back in Kashmir - far worse even.
I’m sure that there are more events like this you don’t hear about, where the news has no time for, and the newspaper no pages.
Today the sun rose again, the city came to life, a bit quieter than usual. People expect tonight will be quiet. Within a couple of days, the windows will be replaced, and life will continue like before.
I sure have landed in a country where there's a lot of work to be done.
NOTE: There has been communication with the VSO staff on security matters, they follow the situation, and we follow their advice. Currently we’re staying at the Villa 43, outside the city centre, safe and sound.
I’m in the Villa 43 outside the city centre; Belinda’s in her apartment at the heart of the city. I’m asleep, she’s not. It’s 00.45.
The events.
Woken up by my phone ringing. Hearing Belinda explain - trembling voice - ‘there’s gunfire in the centre’, she doesn’t know what’s going on. I’m walking outside on the terrace, hearing it too, quite a lot of gunfire, quite a lot of places it’s coming from. She doesn’t want me to come over. I'm telling her that I’ll go outside into the streets to have a look, see if I can get some explanation and a promise to call her back. Neighbors on the streets. Apparently a battalion of soldiers got into town to create some uproar, in order to defend their colleagues who got sentenced to a bit more than a year for attacking a civilian - and from there the sources are different: some say it’s because some soldiers attacked the civilian as a revenge for a relationship with a wife of one of the soldiers, some keep it to a dispute which went out of control.
A civilian jeep driving through the main road, front window smashed, probably stolen (confirmed later), filled with soldiers, firing in the air, stopping just outside here. No more fuel. They get out, start yelling too, the neighbors and me start running and seeking cover. Eventually they disappear.
About 45 minutes after the first call, after a lot of talks to and advice from the neighbors and a couple of phone calls to Belinda how the situation is in the centre, I decide to take the risk to go out to to the apartment on my motorbike, avoiding the main roads as much as possible. One last phone call to her to inform on the last things I’ve heard and to ask her how she’s doing; a promise give her a call in 30 minutes for an update. Enough time to get to the apartment. No way I’m telling her at this stage I’m coming over.
So I head off. Can’t avoid all main roads. Just on the first main road I need to take, I see some soldiers attacking a civilian, a local guy on his bike, and a severe beating it seems, but I don’t stop. After 1km I get halted by a soldier who puts himself behind me on the motorbike, and orders me to start driving. Luckily after about 500m he decides it’s enough, tells me to stop, asks me ‘ca va’ and says I can go on. The next part of the route towards the apartment I can take using smaller roads. No street lights, and almost nobody outside.
On the last part of the route where I can’t avoid the main roads again, I am less lucky, as 4 soldiers stop me - their weapons pointed at me, ask me where I’m going, and start shouting ‘on veut de l’argent pour l’eau’ (we want money for some water). The first 5.000 CFA (enough for 5 liters of bottled water) doesn’t seem enough, and while one of the soldiers has taken the key of the motorbike, there’s no other option than handing him over the rest of the money I got with me. I don't care. They are satisfied with the 40.000 CFA. Finally, I get my key back, and start riding again. The last intersection I cross with blind eyes and high speed - a soldier wants to stop me but is too late, and finally I arrive at Belinda’s apartment, lock the bike, and get into the building. 5 minutes before I promised to call back, I give her a call to ask her to open the door of the apartment.
We’ve spent the next 3 hours sitting on cushions on the ground in the hallway - to avoid any possible risks, there’s still too much gun fire. Most of the time we hear them in the streets next to the apartment, talking, yelling, but mostly firing in the air. At a certain point they smash a window of a shop, we hear the glass break and from that moment, every now and then we hear new soldiers arrive, stepping on the broken glass, probably to see what's left to steal. Sometimes we hear them banging on a metal gate a bit further down the street, they seem quite determined to enter. At some moments when it gets a bit more quiet - well, the gunfire we hear is from further away - we have a look through the windows, still hiding in the shade, to get a better idea of the situation outside. We see there’s a soldier walking back to the military camp holding a computer screen in his hands - and some young guy being harassed by a couple of soldiers on a motorbike.
Finally, most of them seem to have returned to their camp - mostly passing by the streets next to the apartment, still firing their weapons and shouting. The shop with the broken window still causes soldiers to halt. The gunfire eventually subsides. We go for a sleep round 05.00.
The conclusion.
What strikes me most is how the military acted against it’s population, the population it is part of, brought terror and fear in the city, smashed windows and looted shops. The small stalls of the market in the centre, aiming their weapons on them, destructing the possessions of people just trying to take care of their families and make a living. The clothes shop next to the apartment, smashed window, the till in bits and pieces - probably no money found, but lot's of damage created. The petrol station next to the villa, the owner not being able to open up in the morning because all windows are smashed and there’s nothing more inside. A jeep stolen from civilians, still in the street, with it’s front window broken, doors open. And many many other damages which I haven’t seen - in other sections of the city.
It seemed like being back in Kashmir - far worse even.
I’m sure that there are more events like this you don’t hear about, where the news has no time for, and the newspaper no pages.
Today the sun rose again, the city came to life, a bit quieter than usual. People expect tonight will be quiet. Within a couple of days, the windows will be replaced, and life will continue like before.
I sure have landed in a country where there's a lot of work to be done.
NOTE: There has been communication with the VSO staff on security matters, they follow the situation, and we follow their advice. Currently we’re staying at the Villa 43, outside the city centre, safe and sound.
Work and RIP Pauline - anyone seen Paulette ?
Last time I wrote was on my first day (last week monday - getting used to a chair and desk). Since then I had the experience of 3 full working days.
2 days I've spent with colleagues and mayors in Koudougou (last week thursday and friday), working on the strategic plan and budget of 2011 - this year. A very good way of starting to understand the work involved with this organization - as well as a start of understanding how decisions are made in this country.
The third day of work was yesterday: arriving at work while there's a power cut, and finding a colleague waiting patiently at his computer for that power to come back, in order to finish the strategic plan and budget - which must be printed and diffused for the meeting of the 'Assemblée Generale' next week monday. Since I have a laptop and draft versions were available on a memory stick, we worked together on finishing these documents. Until the battery of my laptop was completely drained. Luckily, somewhere in the afternoon there were sparks of electricity, and in the evening we finished these documents, as well as a powerpoint version. My role during that day was no more than 1. helping to find ways of cutting back the proposed budget from last week to a reasonable amount, and 2. do the typing myself - somehow people should be aware of the fact keys on a keyboard do not randomly change, so there's no need for checking them every time.
Though my deepest respect for the courage my colleagues have and the effort they put into their work seen the tremendous challenges - and minimal resources they have to work with.
Then, Pauline and Paulette: 2 chickens I got from a market nearby. One white (Pauline), the other gray/black (Paulette). We made an agreement: we would give them food, water and a nice garden to find some extra worms, and they would provide eggs.
After being here for 3 days, Pauline made some awkward noises while I was having my morning drink on the terrace. 2 seconds later she fell down. Dead. Didn't go for breakfast that morning. That evening I came home after dark, so I assumed Paulette was having a sleep in the lemon tree. I could assume alot more from there, but fact is: she disappeared. And is still missing.
Don't think I'm in the right country to start hanging up flyers for a missing chicken.
2 days I've spent with colleagues and mayors in Koudougou (last week thursday and friday), working on the strategic plan and budget of 2011 - this year. A very good way of starting to understand the work involved with this organization - as well as a start of understanding how decisions are made in this country.
The third day of work was yesterday: arriving at work while there's a power cut, and finding a colleague waiting patiently at his computer for that power to come back, in order to finish the strategic plan and budget - which must be printed and diffused for the meeting of the 'Assemblée Generale' next week monday. Since I have a laptop and draft versions were available on a memory stick, we worked together on finishing these documents. Until the battery of my laptop was completely drained. Luckily, somewhere in the afternoon there were sparks of electricity, and in the evening we finished these documents, as well as a powerpoint version. My role during that day was no more than 1. helping to find ways of cutting back the proposed budget from last week to a reasonable amount, and 2. do the typing myself - somehow people should be aware of the fact keys on a keyboard do not randomly change, so there's no need for checking them every time.
Though my deepest respect for the courage my colleagues have and the effort they put into their work seen the tremendous challenges - and minimal resources they have to work with.
Then, Pauline and Paulette: 2 chickens I got from a market nearby. One white (Pauline), the other gray/black (Paulette). We made an agreement: we would give them food, water and a nice garden to find some extra worms, and they would provide eggs.
After being here for 3 days, Pauline made some awkward noises while I was having my morning drink on the terrace. 2 seconds later she fell down. Dead. Didn't go for breakfast that morning. That evening I came home after dark, so I assumed Paulette was having a sleep in the lemon tree. I could assume alot more from there, but fact is: she disappeared. And is still missing.
Don't think I'm in the right country to start hanging up flyers for a missing chicken.
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